Join me... on my blog of experiences in Guatemala.
I went there to learn a language and instead found an amazing warm people, but most of all I found myself. The experience changed me and for the better. More on that later.
To begin with Guatemala is incredible easy to get to. Many major airlines fly direct to Guatemala City.
I sometimes choose to fly part way and then traverse a section of southern Mexico into Guatemala on a land route on what is loosely referred as the Gringo Trail.
I find that when I travel this route it gives a better visual connection with the land and its people. It allows me to experience differences between what both Mexico and Guatemala can offer me.
My flight took me from Toronto, Ontario, Canada to Mexico City with a transfer flight to an airport just outside of Tuxtla Gutierrez, which is 1060 kilometres (660 miles) south east of Mexico city and close to the Guatemala border. From here I took a shuttle bus ($16.00) to San Cristobal de la Casas.
San Cristobal de la Casas in Mexico is 85 kilometres east from Angel Albino Corzo Airport.
San Cristobal was the capital of the state of Chiapas until 1892 and is a quaint colonial city set in a small valley and surrounded by mountains. Considered the cultural capital of the state, it retains its charm with red tiled roofs, cobblestone streets, wrought iron balconies, classical architecture and its designation as a Pueblo Magica that allows a visitor a truly magical experience being there.
Shuttle rides in Mexico and Guatemala are an extraordinary experience. The drivers must have a code unto themselves as solid double lines are ignored and passing on corners seems to be the norm. My seat belt was wrapped tight around me. The lower roadways are littered with speed bumps as small pueblos with exposed poverty come and go.
The road cut into the sides of deep canyon gorges that snaked and wove its way climbing higher and higher into the mountains. I notice on one gorge a high swinging suspended bridge and a car gingerly creeping across. Yes it was bouncing.
Trucks heavy laden with huge loads of building materials swing, swerve and rush by us in some unstoppable race. The deciduous trees give way to pine as across some distant vista I see my first haunting view of a perfect cone shaped volcano. It stands alone and is eerie and ominous in its presence.
We stop briefly at the the Mexican side of the border. It is orderly as visitor visa's are collected and that stamp appears once again in passports. The space between the countries holds a giant market and we learn that we must walk and haul our baggage a short distance from no person's land into Guatemala. If you have not done this before sticking close to the driver is somewhat important as he leads the diverse line of travellers through the intricate pathways of the market. The market is alive with trade as you are jostled for bargains.
Above the Guatemala Immigration building is a sign that reads Bienvenida Guatemala. Below a long faced building with two doors. One is for those heading into Mexico and the other door for those entering Guatemala. Inside both doors the space is shared with the same long counter. But you must enter through the right door for your destination. Don't ask me how this works, but it seems to and quite well.
If border disputes or demonstrations are not happening at the border or down the road somewhere then it will be just a short wait and you are legally in Guatemala with a stamp and 90 days written into it.
It is within Guatemala that you start to see some differences between the countries, with poverty more open, highways littered with garbage and the new shuttle which has no functioning seat belts.
The best way way to visit any country is not to compare it with what you left behind.
It is different and it is unique. Guatemala is probably the most beautiful country in all of Central America. With its stunning and incredible scenery, extremely warm people and a charm that allows you (if you let it) to experience true love.
Guatemala I discovered is also an incredible inexpensive place to live in.
My destination was Quetzaltenango or as it is commonly known Xela. When I first went to Xela I stayed in the usual hostel variety accommodation. Later I wanted something more permanent and I went looking to see what was out there.
Would you believe.... a one bedroom fully furnished apartment with maid service, TV, Wi-fi in Xela for a total cost of $150 Cad a month.
I looked at a newly constructed two story, two bedroom (unfurnished) house in a gated community for $250 Cad a month just on the out-skirts of town on a bus route.
Another more centrally located gated two bedroom apartment went for $180.00. Public transit costs here cost about 0.14 cents Cad a ride.
Hostels accommodation goes from $3.00 to $7.00 Cad per night in a dorm. Hotels prices vary with rooms with a bathroom for $20.00 Cad a night and up. The most expensive hotel in Xela has rooms for $90.00 Cad and up.
Meals out cost around $2.00 in a comedor to to $15.00 in an upscale restaurant.
A chicken bus ride from Xela to Panajachel on Lago Atitlan will cost you $4.00 Cad. A pullman bus (old greyhound buses from the USA) will cost you $8.00 Cad from Xela to Guatemala City.
Xela to Belize city $60.00 cad. And there is so much more...
That said, the reason for visiting Guatemala had everything to do with finding out who I was. Although at the time, I thought it had everything to do with learning Spanish, so I could leave.
The economy was on a nose dive, my marriage had ended and my mother had recently passed away. I needed a break, I needed an escape. Costa Rica interested me. I could just get away and have some hedonistic time, yes that was an that idea crossed my mind. And I would volunteer to give me something to do.
The problem with volunteering is that you do it to help and not to fill in time.
Things started to change in my thinking when I saw this rather disturbing video on U tube, "La Chureca."
It showed all these families and how they scraped a living on the edge of the largest garbage dump in Central America. It was then I knew that I was more interested in helping that just escaping.
I had worked in theatre, art and with children so naturally I thought that I could do something to help.
I remember one organization that I had contacted (several times) emailing me back and asking how my Spanish was. Spanish I thought... yes it had never dawned on me that I would need some of that language. I had this huge giant hole in my plan. I spoke no Spanish at all and yes then so desperately needed to find a place to learn.
I looked at all countries with their many language schools. There are a lot with a large range of pricing and structure.
Guatemala was the least expensive and the easiest as the people do speak a little slower.
I chose Quetzaltenango or Xela as the locals call it, as it did not cater to English speaking tourists as other centres like Antigua do.
Xela is also at an altitude of 2330 metres (7600 feet) with cool nights, warm days and no bugs. It was perfect.
Xela is the second largest city in Guatemala with a population of some 250,000 mostly indigenous people.
Xela has ten universities, some thirty trade schools and as many Spanish language schools.
Xela is considered the "cradle of culture."
I studied every bit of information I could find online about Xela as it slowly became more and more inviting to me.
Choosing a language school can be daunting as my choice was slowly narrowed down.
Miguel de Cervantes school of Spanish housed in one of the oldest structures in Xela with an impressive website finally won my attention.
Schooling at Q750 ($95 cad) a week.
They offered accommodation at Q800 ($100 cad) a month which fitted into my budget very well.
The school with its open courtyards and wandering stairways all held some romantic vision for me.
The school is situated a block and a half from parque central.
Parque central is the central hub of activity in Xela. It is close to open markets, banks, a museum, library, the cathedral (Espiritu Sancto).
It is also close to many shops, pubs and restaurants.
A definite must see for anyone visiting Xela is local events include a visit to the Teatro Municipal, Passage Enrique, chocolate factories with chocolate to die for, people watching and having your shoes shined in parque central, the vast democracia market, the colourful Minerva chicken bus depot.
Guatemalans seem to thrive on festivals and just enjoying themselves. I experienced countless processions and festivities and parades that captured my imagination in a land like no other.
,
Life was suddenly perfect.
Yours can be too
Mi gusta Xela.
I went there to learn a language and instead found an amazing warm people, but most of all I found myself. The experience changed me and for the better. More on that later.
Getting There
To begin with Guatemala is incredible easy to get to. Many major airlines fly direct to Guatemala City.
I sometimes choose to fly part way and then traverse a section of southern Mexico into Guatemala on a land route on what is loosely referred as the Gringo Trail.
I find that when I travel this route it gives a better visual connection with the land and its people. It allows me to experience differences between what both Mexico and Guatemala can offer me.
The Gringo Trail....
My flight took me from Toronto, Ontario, Canada to Mexico City with a transfer flight to an airport just outside of Tuxtla Gutierrez, which is 1060 kilometres (660 miles) south east of Mexico city and close to the Guatemala border. From here I took a shuttle bus ($16.00) to San Cristobal de la Casas.
San Cristobal de la Casas in Mexico is 85 kilometres east from Angel Albino Corzo Airport.
San Cristobal was the capital of the state of Chiapas until 1892 and is a quaint colonial city set in a small valley and surrounded by mountains. Considered the cultural capital of the state, it retains its charm with red tiled roofs, cobblestone streets, wrought iron balconies, classical architecture and its designation as a Pueblo Magica that allows a visitor a truly magical experience being there.
Shuttle rides in Mexico and Guatemala are an extraordinary experience. The drivers must have a code unto themselves as solid double lines are ignored and passing on corners seems to be the norm. My seat belt was wrapped tight around me. The lower roadways are littered with speed bumps as small pueblos with exposed poverty come and go.
The road cut into the sides of deep canyon gorges that snaked and wove its way climbing higher and higher into the mountains. I notice on one gorge a high swinging suspended bridge and a car gingerly creeping across. Yes it was bouncing.
Trucks heavy laden with huge loads of building materials swing, swerve and rush by us in some unstoppable race. The deciduous trees give way to pine as across some distant vista I see my first haunting view of a perfect cone shaped volcano. It stands alone and is eerie and ominous in its presence.
We stop briefly at the the Mexican side of the border. It is orderly as visitor visa's are collected and that stamp appears once again in passports. The space between the countries holds a giant market and we learn that we must walk and haul our baggage a short distance from no person's land into Guatemala. If you have not done this before sticking close to the driver is somewhat important as he leads the diverse line of travellers through the intricate pathways of the market. The market is alive with trade as you are jostled for bargains.
Above the Guatemala Immigration building is a sign that reads Bienvenida Guatemala. Below a long faced building with two doors. One is for those heading into Mexico and the other door for those entering Guatemala. Inside both doors the space is shared with the same long counter. But you must enter through the right door for your destination. Don't ask me how this works, but it seems to and quite well.
If border disputes or demonstrations are not happening at the border or down the road somewhere then it will be just a short wait and you are legally in Guatemala with a stamp and 90 days written into it.
It is within Guatemala that you start to see some differences between the countries, with poverty more open, highways littered with garbage and the new shuttle which has no functioning seat belts.
The best way way to visit any country is not to compare it with what you left behind.
It is different and it is unique. Guatemala is probably the most beautiful country in all of Central America. With its stunning and incredible scenery, extremely warm people and a charm that allows you (if you let it) to experience true love.
Guatemala I discovered is also an incredible inexpensive place to live in.
My destination was Quetzaltenango or as it is commonly known Xela. When I first went to Xela I stayed in the usual hostel variety accommodation. Later I wanted something more permanent and I went looking to see what was out there.
Just the facts
Would you believe.... a one bedroom fully furnished apartment with maid service, TV, Wi-fi in Xela for a total cost of $150 Cad a month.
I looked at a newly constructed two story, two bedroom (unfurnished) house in a gated community for $250 Cad a month just on the out-skirts of town on a bus route.
Another more centrally located gated two bedroom apartment went for $180.00. Public transit costs here cost about 0.14 cents Cad a ride.
Hostels accommodation goes from $3.00 to $7.00 Cad per night in a dorm. Hotels prices vary with rooms with a bathroom for $20.00 Cad a night and up. The most expensive hotel in Xela has rooms for $90.00 Cad and up.
Meals out cost around $2.00 in a comedor to to $15.00 in an upscale restaurant.
A chicken bus ride from Xela to Panajachel on Lago Atitlan will cost you $4.00 Cad. A pullman bus (old greyhound buses from the USA) will cost you $8.00 Cad from Xela to Guatemala City.
Xela to Belize city $60.00 cad. And there is so much more...
My Story
That said, the reason for visiting Guatemala had everything to do with finding out who I was. Although at the time, I thought it had everything to do with learning Spanish, so I could leave.
The economy was on a nose dive, my marriage had ended and my mother had recently passed away. I needed a break, I needed an escape. Costa Rica interested me. I could just get away and have some hedonistic time, yes that was an that idea crossed my mind. And I would volunteer to give me something to do.
The problem with volunteering is that you do it to help and not to fill in time.
Things started to change in my thinking when I saw this rather disturbing video on U tube, "La Chureca."
It showed all these families and how they scraped a living on the edge of the largest garbage dump in Central America. It was then I knew that I was more interested in helping that just escaping.
I had worked in theatre, art and with children so naturally I thought that I could do something to help.
I remember one organization that I had contacted (several times) emailing me back and asking how my Spanish was. Spanish I thought... yes it had never dawned on me that I would need some of that language. I had this huge giant hole in my plan. I spoke no Spanish at all and yes then so desperately needed to find a place to learn.
I looked at all countries with their many language schools. There are a lot with a large range of pricing and structure.
Guatemala was the least expensive and the easiest as the people do speak a little slower.
I chose Quetzaltenango or Xela as the locals call it, as it did not cater to English speaking tourists as other centres like Antigua do.
Xela is also at an altitude of 2330 metres (7600 feet) with cool nights, warm days and no bugs. It was perfect.
Xela
Xela is the second largest city in Guatemala with a population of some 250,000 mostly indigenous people.
Xela has ten universities, some thirty trade schools and as many Spanish language schools.
Xela is considered the "cradle of culture."
I studied every bit of information I could find online about Xela as it slowly became more and more inviting to me.
Choosing a language school can be daunting as my choice was slowly narrowed down.
Miguel de Cervantes school of Spanish housed in one of the oldest structures in Xela with an impressive website finally won my attention.
Schooling at Q750 ($95 cad) a week.
They offered accommodation at Q800 ($100 cad) a month which fitted into my budget very well.
The school with its open courtyards and wandering stairways all held some romantic vision for me.
The school is situated a block and a half from parque central.
Parque central is the central hub of activity in Xela. It is close to open markets, banks, a museum, library, the cathedral (Espiritu Sancto).
It is also close to many shops, pubs and restaurants.
A definite must see for anyone visiting Xela is local events include a visit to the Teatro Municipal, Passage Enrique, chocolate factories with chocolate to die for, people watching and having your shoes shined in parque central, the vast democracia market, the colourful Minerva chicken bus depot.
Guatemalans seem to thrive on festivals and just enjoying themselves. I experienced countless processions and festivities and parades that captured my imagination in a land like no other.
,
Life was suddenly perfect.
Yours can be too
Mi gusta Xela.
